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Closer to the building, there are sometimes even flowers. Rising up from a marble platform, the mausoleum is flanked on each of its four sides by cadets of the Pakistan military. Erect and stern, they stare ahead into space, as little kids skitter about them, trying to make them laugh. Inside, under the high-ceilinged central chamber, the grave of the founder of Pakistan is encircled by a black fence. It is against these railings that visiting foreign dignitaries and reverent local ones are shown laying wreaths on important days.

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The wreaths are round circles of flowers unlike those at the grave of any ordinary Pakistanis. These are a legacy of the British for whose dead colonial officers the simple subcontinental practice of scattering petals was deemed inadequate, or perhaps too messy. Unbeknown to most, the raised coffin-shaped structure enclosed by the fence does not really contain the remains of the Founder of Pakistan. Those lie in a chamber below, accessed by a separate staircase that leads to another room, one which holds the actual grave of the Founder of Pakistan.

The real grave is underneath the visible one, in a subterranean chamber that is kept continually locked.

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Only the caretakers of the mausoleum have access to that area, and can be opened only by them. It is, by this limitation of access, a private space, where no one can enter unless permitted by the guardians. This last link in the chain of reverence, however, was recently revealed to be broken. The video had recorded a shocking negotiation. In the recorded conversation, one of the caretakers of the shrine and the man in question haggle over the price of renting the private locked room below the public shrine.

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The man wants a private space to take the woman accompanying him; the caretaker is happy to oblige. Airing the footage raised the expected outcry. The host of the television show, who has in previous recorded expeditions outed gambling dens, robbers, sellers of watered down milk, and pilfered pills, organized a protest outside the mausoleum. The administrators had thought perhaps that no one would know, save the dead founder—and he, of course, could not tell on them. If he could talk, he would of course have a lot else to say about Pakistan.

There are few public spaces in Karachi where couples, even if they are married, can have moments of privacy. In this sense, Karachi, purported to be the fastest growing mega city in the world , is different from others of its kind.

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Reports and extract from letters dating back. Meet gay men from Islamabad. Photostops at Rakaposhi view point and other interesting places sites.

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